Tempranillo, Vina Bosconia, Lopez de Heredia, Rioja DOCa., Spain, 2009, 13.5% abv. US$50

I’m going to be dreaming about having enjoyed this bottle for a while yet.  It’s a classic Riojan red blend from benchmark winery, Lopez de Heredia – one of my absolute favourite houses.

A stunning blend of Tempranillo (80) with Garnacha (15), and Mazuelo/Graciano (5), the Bosconia is a translucent ruby turning ever-so-lightly to garnet – which in and of itself is remarkable for a 15 year old wine.  The nose shows ripe strawberry with clove, cinnamon, sandalwood and green hay, while the fresh, clean palate echoes it with addition of sour cherry, rose petal and light leather belt.  The finish is beautifully long on this delicious wine which has a long life ahead of it.  If you have some, it will go for a good decade more.

One day, I will get there in person. But, until I make my pilgrimage to Rioja, I will continue to enjoy these bottles with friends.  Thanks Frank and Suzanne for making the veal Marsala that accommodated this wine so phenomenally.

Gin, Lady Trieu, Hoi An Spice Road; The Lab Series, Edition 1, Nguyen Nguyen Distillery, Cu Chi, Vietnam, 43% abv., 700 ml., US$50

We took a trip recently to Vietnam – I highly recommend this country as a place to travel to.  The people are extraordinarily gracious, the food is almost uniformly delicious everywhere you go, and the country is incredibly beautiful.

There’s another reason now – the limited edition line of Lady Trieu Gins crafted in Cu Chi, just north of Ho Chi Minh City.

I tried many new things during this trip including some (very hot) rice alcohol, and some ‘snake wine’.  Most of the beer I encountered was unremarkable, but the bartenders at our Hanoi hotel took good care of me with awesome cocktails.

Then there was the Martini I ordered in Hoi An – which ended up being literally that, a shot of Martini Vermouth. Vietnam’s coffee game is s t r o n g, which made me deliriously happy.  This was the only positive holdover from colonization that I could see, except maybe for the bread used for Ban Mi.

But this Gin was a huge winner and I was happy to be able to bring some back home to Canada.  The Lady Trieu Distillery has developed a series of Gins, each celebrating the distinct biodiversity and history of different regions of Vietnam.  I chose the Hoi An Spice Road because we had enjoyed touring the Old Town streets and pagodas at the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site.

Hoi An was at one time a bona fide crossroads of the world – the most important port city of the transcontinental Spice Trade.  This history is reflected in the botanicals selected for distilling – in particular, the pomelo and lime peel, ginger root, cardamom, coriander and red peppercorns – give it a fabulous citrus and spice profile.

Drink it on its own or on an ice cube to bring out the aromas.  Although you can, I feel it’s too good to smother with a mixer.  You can purchase Lady Trieu  Gin in Cambodia, Lao, Thailand, Singapore and Vietnam.  Now that I know this, I’m planning my next trip.

Charity fundraising tasting

During Cov*d, I offered a wine tasting with paired hors d’oeuvres to a local Rotary Club fundraiser for the Victoria Hospice Society in the memory of my father-in-law, Ken, who spent his last days there.

Of course, because of Cov*d, tastings were not possible for a couple of years.  But, I was able to do it recently. 

I prepared a tasting of four distinct red wines from around the world for some lovely folks.  We explored a single varietal, very plummy Montepulciano d’Abruzzo from Cugnoli, Italy, an earthen Plavac Mali blended with some international varietals from the stony, hot slopes of Brac, Croatia, a Grenache and old vine Syrah from the Cotes Catalanes of Southern France, and a Zin and Petite Syrah blend with plenty of sweet tobacco from California’s Suisun Valley.

It was a lot of fun and I was delighted that the silent auction had raised $400 for the Victoria Hospice.

Zinfandel, Split Rail, St. Anne’s Crossing Winery, Dry Creek Valley AVA, Sonoma County, California, 15.7% abv., 2020, US$44

On a recent trip to California, I met some truly fabulous people – people who treated me like a member of their own family, and who I can’t wait to host in BC some day.  Brenda and Joe were two of those people.

They took me with them on an afternoon of tasting Zinfandels at their favourite winery, St. Anne’s Crossing in Kenwood, California.

The 11 Wilson Artisanal wineries, of which St. Anne’s Crossing is one, have two winemakers who produce over 100 different wines, many of which are Zinfandels, at their Pezzi King Vineyards Winery.  In addition, owner Ken Wilson owns the entire Rockpile AVA.

As wine club members, we were offered a premium tasting; Scottish transplant, Jacqui, led us expertly through 9 very different wines including a Sauvignon Blanc, a Cabernet Sauvignon, A Petite Sirah, several blends, and four Zinfandels.

It was hard to choose the one bottle that I would bring across the border back to Canada, but I settled on the Split Rail.

Made from Single Vineyard Pezzi King Ranch 100% Zinfandel, it’s deep ruby with a nose and palate of strawberry, red plum and bramble, buttressed by leather strap and tobacco leaf. Classic Zin, with a nicely rounded palate and great tannins.

It was a great afternoon with great friends and great wine.  If you’re keen on Zinfandels, be sure to give this winery a close look.

Pinot Noir, Walraven Vineyard, Domaine Anderson, Anderson Valley AVA, California, 14.5% abv., 2019 US$70

Travelling down the highway from Mendocino on our way to Truckee, California, I yearned for a tasting at Domaine Anderson.  We’d been to the Anderson Valley several years prior, but had visited their sister winery, Roederer at that time.  

Domaine Anderson is nestled into a refined and graceful setting – the architecture of the tasting room and surrounding buildings is beautiful.  Everything is in harmony – which is hardly surprising because these folks are cognizant of how important that is; they run an organic and biodynamic outfit.  Their vineyards are all certified organic, and the Dach in particular is Demeter Certified Biodynamic.  

I met Gregg Lamer that morning, Director of Hospitality and Tasting Room Operations for the three Roederer owned wineries (Roederer Estate, Scharfenberger Cellars, and Domaine Anderson).  Gregg managed my experience masterfully – with just the right amount of information and presence.  

I was a fan of both the Walraven Vineyard Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Walraven is their warmest growing region in the south of the valley, but also has the most altitude featuring Chardonnay clone 124, and Dijon clones 114 and 667.  

Walraven Pinot Noir
Eyes – translucent cherry
Nose – Penny Royal with Byng cherry and ripe strawberry
Palate – More Byng cherry with strawberry and boysenberry compote, lingering mint layered with some leather belt, gracious tannins and acidity.  Drinkable now, or keep for 3-5 years

There’s a reason this winery made the 2023 list of the world’s top 100 in Wine & Spirits Magazine.  Elegantly constructed and delicious wines shown off in beautiful surroundings by top quality people will do that.

 

Roussanne, Uni, Stolpman Vineyards, Ballard Canyon AVA, Los Olivos, California, 12% abv., 2021, US$30

The night before I’d been to a renowned restaurant that listed Stolpman Vineyards on their wine list, so I thought I’d pay them a visit at their outdoor tasting room in lovely Los Olivos, California – a small town with many dozens of winetasting options.

Owner Peter Stolpman, values his long-standing crew members, so dedicates several of his wines to them. For example, the rosé being tasted was the “Para Maria” with half of the profits going to his employee of 20 years.  There was also a red blend – Syrah, Sangiovese and Grenache – called “La Cuadrilla” in honour of the farming team/crew. 

At least 10% of the vineyard’s production goes into the blend. The profits are returned to the crew members, divided by seniority, in the form of both a year-end bonus as well as weekly bonuses on each paycheck.

The big year-end bonus allows crew members to add to their savings, while the weekly bonus increases the quality of everyday life for La Cuadrilla and their families. I’ve never seen this kind of profit sharing with vineyard workers, so was quite intrigued.

La Cuadrilla tends their dry farmed, estate grown grapes by hand only – no tractors or heavy machinery are used.  And the fermentations are all spontaneous and indigenous with no inoculations or other additions.  

I enjoyed my outdoor tasting with Lisa (US$20) and bought a bottle of their ‘Uni’ – a mostly Roussanne and 30% Chardonnay white blend with a herbal palate and nose of honey, acacia, pineapple, and nettle.  Acidity is high on this wine and it is marketed to local Japanese restaurants – hence the sea urchin name and theme.

Definitely worthy of a visit (make a reservation online) if you’re in the Solvang-Buellton area.

 

Chenin Blanc, David Monopole, Arnaud Lambert, Brézé, Saumur AOC, Loire Valley, France, 2020, 13.9% abv., US$88

In September 2023, we dropped into Monterey, California for the Rennsport 7 Reunion, a kind of convention for Porsche enthusiasts.  On the last night, and to celebrate 20 years of being together, we dined at ‘Passionfish’.

We are no slouches when it comes to finding outstanding meals, but this one may have been the best overall one we have ever experienced.

It was due in no small part to the exquisite wine list which emphasized not only unusual varietals, and organic and biodynamic producers, but also placed importance upon making wine as accessible as possible to everyone by listing bottle prices close to retail.

This made me very, very happy.

This wine is produced in Saumur AOC (Loire Valley) by Arnaud Lambert and his father Yves who first converted their tuffeau soils to organic status, and just recently to biodynamic.  This region really does offer superior terroir – and the whites are often compared to those of Montrachet.

Our server Karle suggested this wine as her favourite, but it was no hard sell for me – Chenin is my preferred varietal.

Eyes – pale lemon
Nose – white peach, quince, Granny Smith apple, lemon zest, salt, minerality
Palate – quince, Meyer lemon zest, mandarin peel, more minerality, lanolin, and wet stones
Electric and bright with super acidity, beautiful and tight, tight, tight! Meant to drink young, this wine saw a little bit of time in oak during its ageing process and was stirred once while on the lees.

It complimented our scallop with crabcake, mussels, and shrimp with white beans.  A 5 puttonyo Tokaji was shockingly perfect with our chocolate sorbet.

Grenache, Santa Ynez Valley, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Qupé, Santa Maria, California, 2006, 14.5% abv., $80

In September 2023, I stopped while passing through Buellton, California for dinner at The Hitching Post II.  I’d been planning this dinner in my head for a while and had already decided to order a special bottle to enjoy – as one does at the Hitching Post.

Some of you may remember the Hitching Post as the scene of several dinners in the movie Sideways (2004) – and most significantly as the infamously over-served wine extravaganza featuring Paul Giamatti (Miles), Thomas Haden Church (Jack), Sandra Oh (Stephanie), and Virginia Madsen (Maya). 

I arrived for my 7pm reservation and waited… and waited.  After the third person walked through the foyer without acknowledging my presence, someone finally did.  I was led to what must be the worst table in the house – a two seater placed smack dab in the kitchen entrance.

Initially I started to put my coat on the back of the chair and even thought about dutifully sitting down.  But then, I saw what was happening here – single, 55+ woman, gray hair – dispensable and invisible.

There were many empty tables; I insisted upon a new seat. And then I proceeded to order this wine.

Eyes – translucent garnet
Nose – complex Byng cherry, pomegranate, garrigue, and dried herb
Palate – significant development, sour and super ripe Byng cherries, blood orange rind, tarragon, anise, black olive
Drinking at its peak, absolutely sublime, pure sunshine and happiness (16 yo at opening).

In Sideways, Virginia Madsen’s character gives a heartfelt speech about what makes wine special for her – what kind of a day was it when they harvested, who picked the grapes, who was there when it was bottled, are they still alive?  From the picture to the right, we know that Bob Lindquist was there – this 2006 wine was made well before he left in 2019.

In the end, I luxuriated in the wine, and had a lovely conversation with the people at the next table.  The wine was glorious, the dinner barely average, and my new table, much improved over the original version. 

Miles would have insisted on being moved.  So, I did too.
  

 

White Pinot Noir, Eclipse, Tenbrink Vineyards, Tolenas Winery, Suisun Valley AVA, Fairfield, California, 2022, 14% abv., US$37

This is pretty cool and happening stuff.  While Pinot Noir grapes have been pressed and used forever as part of sparkling wines and blends, it’s rare to find white versions as still wine.

This is the wine that won winemaker Lisa Howard the gold at the 2019 Women’s International Wine Competition.

When I was in Suisun (‘Soo-Soon’) Valley AVA recently, I had the opportunity to watch Lisa and husband Cliff press the Pinot Noir that had been harvested that morning for the 2023 version (picture left).  They also graciously allowed me to ‘help’ them the next day rack their 2023 Albariño (kind folks, they could have finished faster without me, picture right).

Suisun Valley AVA is the second oldest wine region in the USA to neighbouring Napa Valley.  Napa is renowned for its high prices and US$80/per person ++ tasting fees, but if you want authenticity and down-to-earth experiences, give Suisun a try.  Do it soon though, before the big, commercial wineries move in and buy up all the vineyards and land (already happening and coming soon, I fear).

The outdoor tasting garden at Tolenas is at the side of Lisa’s childhood home.  She and Cliff farm the vineyards with her father who started the whole operation – and is still working making wine and farming grapes.  Mary, their Tasting room manager, knows the wines inside and out.

When you go, don’t pass up the Eclipse – named for the Eclipse of 2017 when Lisa dreamt up the concept for this award-winning wine.

Eyes – delicate onion skin
Nose – white flower, nectarine and red currant
Palate – white peach and nectarine are layered over the herbaceous palate
Drink now and enjoy while it’s fresh, don’t hold.

This wine was outstanding paired with rice paper salad rolls and spicy peanut sauce at the local eatery in Fairfield, Two60.

Chardonnay, Dream Field, Babcock Winery, Peake and Bien Nacido Vineyards, Lompoc, Sta. Rita AVA, Santa Barbara County, California, 2021, 13.9% abv., US$58

I have visited tasting rooms in seven countries, but this one nestled in the Santa Rita Hills is the most intriguing and relaxing I’ve ever been to.

Take a seat outside at one of the trendy, weather-worn tables decorated with beautifully potted succulents, and enjoy a glass or more.  The Babcock tasting experience has happiness and class imprinted all over it.

The main area is a huge 5,000 square foot former barrel storage building with a beautiful selection of what seems like never-ending, high quality options for purchase, carefully curated by Lisa Babcock.  As their website puts it, “It’s really a fusion of creativity that encompasses more than just wine.” (see video below)

There’s something for everyone here – from vintage motorcycle jackets and concert posters, to gourmet snacks, jewelry, no end of accessories, and of course, plenty of award-winning wine.

In 1995, winemaker Bryan Babcock was honoured by the James Beard Foundation as the only American on a list of ‘Top Ten Small Production Winemakers in the World’.  His wines are serious, coveted, and quite famous.  He has worked tirelessly for the Sta. Rita AVA.

Although he produces Pinots and a myriad unusual grapes that people come from miles away to taste, it was approaching 90F, so I opted for some Chardonnay.  Relaxing outside at the crush pad, I was ecstatic.

There was no one to tell me how the wine should taste, and no one to hover over me and move me out within the allotted hour.  Just Chris, the really great, laid back, yet superbly professional and knowledgeable tasting room manager who clearly knows his stuff, some exquisite wine, and a fabulous soundtrack of classic and alt rock.  It’s an absolutely refreshing atmosphere to find at a winery.

Eyes – medium gold
Nose – yellow apple, lemon curd, a light sea salted caramel, and wet stone
Palate – lemon zest and lemon meringue, pineapple, with more salted caramel and minerality, dried stalks of lemongrass, and an ever-so-light touch of oak.  Medium plus acidity keeps you wanting more.  A completely integrated beginning and end tells the whole story

Hands down – if I lived anywhere within a decent drive of this place, I’d be a member in an instant and make weekly visits.  I finally found what I’ve been looking for.